As more of TBs show up and more people are setting this tool will become more accommodating to the lower level of climber since foot only holds allow you to set fully static problems between jugs the whole way up.Using the TB to warm up for hangs was also quite nice since it took no skin away from my fingers and I know I was getting them stressed just enough to be ready for some repeaters. When you get a TB you are buying into the whole mirrored training system with a quickly growing problems database. For sure it is a cool way to measure yourself against others and I like the idea of a small standardized board.
Each problem would be climbed 2-4 times on each side. But, dynamic climbers take note: You can use the board to increase body tension and controlled movement by not letting your feet cut. Broken down into multiple sets and size options, there are Tension Board set-ups available for a broad range of ability levels and space constraints. This worked out very well and if you are not sure you’re going to add LEDs then I would recommend waiting to drill the holes for the LED kit until the wall is up. Tension seems like a great in between, more ergonomic wood holds and positions for the board. Also when it comes time to make a committing dyno with the left hand there is a lot of hesitation but not much on the right. This may be a bit contrived but it allows you to set way more varieties of movement than simply tracking feet would. Points: 16 i made my wall adjustable from 20 to 50+, sure it added some cost but I really like being able to switch up the angle for different training. Thanks for watching! A problem that could easily be solved by just limiting the number of fingers you let touch the holds.You can see here the large brick pinch with the red tape under it which tension no longer uses and have replaced with a pinch of similar size but is tapered on either end so it becomes much more difficult to use as a foot holdI love all the holds and have never felt any hesitation to grab any of them. More than any other trip I’ve been on, I showed up ready. Almost there! The inclusion of jugs and finger buckets make it possible for beginner climbers to use the TB for limit workouts which is where it really shines. Now, you’re ready to MoonBoard.To get started on the MoonBoard, try the most popular problems on the MoonBoard app. The Tension board is almost the same thing but different as with the holds are made of wood. Yes, if your already strong enough, otherwise its gonna be tough but possible. The best part is that you can make your own problems as well.
Initially I thought the TB had too many pinches and was kinda disappointed about that but the large pinches in particular were amazing for training the tufa crushing power needed for The Homestead in AZ.
ADVERTISEMENT. Will, who had been a coach and trainer for years, used his cumulative knowledge and applied it to the design and construction of the wall. For this the TB was awesome. It makes it quick and easy to climb through several different problems fast without cooling down at all between them. So 4 good reps per side on three problems and you’re at 24 goes and pretty smoked. All walls can be adjusted angles or fixed at any 5-degree angle (30, 35, 40, 45, 50, 55, 60, 65, 70 will be most common). I again want to bring up the benefit of having problems with set “feet” since it allows the freedom to create problems that are foot movement specific. The Tension board app also allows for “foot only” holds at any point during the climb, giving more control to the routesetter to force specific movements. This has not been my experience at all, I felt like my skin was in awesome shape whenever I went climbing outside during my training.Does the TB work for base fitness and warming up for Hangboard workouts? We talked to Sjong, the instructor for The MoonBoard is “not very functional if you’re not easily climbing V4 or V5 in your gym,” says Sjong. I also had the opportunity to practice powerful dynamic movement deep into the workout which usually I don’t make happen while ARCing. Also, since the problems never change, the MoonBoard is useful for perfecting technique and tracking progress. You could also easily buy tons of holds form other companies for that price and that may be the better option for many people. Since the screw on holds go in-between the bolt on holds you need to place your studs very carefully if you want to install the LED kit. Let me know if you have any questions about this process.As you can see if you plan to add LEDs there is a very small margin for where the studs can goWhen you first look at and touch the holds of the TB you realize the care that has been put into designing them. If you are not familiar, the Tension Board (I’ll call it the TB from now on) is an 8’ wide by 12’ tall system board with all wooden holds made by a company called When I built my first climbing wall a year and half ago Tension was just getting started. Kilter makes several different boards: Home (8’ wide by 12’ tall), Wide Home (12’ wide by 12’ tall) and Commercial (12’ wide by 14’ tall). Move up through the grades at the bouldering wall until you’re climbing at your limit, a progression that should take at least 20 minutes. In other words, the routes remain in the system, and after you finish one, you can come back after a period of training and test how your skills and strength have improved by gauging how the problem feels upon repeating it. One other critquie I have heard people level against wooden holds is that they are too gentle on your skin and don’t condition your fingers enough for needs of climbing outdoors. Sjong recommends the Moonboard … Broken down into multiple sets and size options, there are Tension Board set-ups available for a broad range of ability levels and space constraints.
In this way, anyone who builds and trains on a Moon Board is climbing on the same Moon Board as everyone else. For those that haven’t seen or used one, the bare bones of it are this: the Moon Board is a 40 degree overhanging ‘woody’, built to spec.